![]() ![]() If your vehicle’s thermostat is stuck in the open position while you’re driving, you’re going to have a lot of trouble. Unfortunately, your thermostat can become stuck in either the open or closed position at any time. When your thermostat is functioning properly, it opens and closes as needed to either allow or prevent coolant flow, depending on your engine’s temperature. What Happens If A Thermostat Is Stuck Closed And Open? This is accomplished by regulating the flow of coolant through your engine and then back through the radiator. Armed with all this info, the ball is in your court.Is driving with thermostat stuck closed or open the right? In this article we will be considering stuck closed thermostat symptoms, if it is ok Is driving with thermostat that stuck closed or open? The thermostat in your car is responsible for maintaining your engine’s temperature, just like the thermostat in your home. If Torque reads below 160✯ or so, your gauge will too. Torque reads low as does your dash gauge. Basically it is not to be trusted or reliable for diagnostic purposes.Īll things considered, with your outside temperatures lately, it almost sounds like you're OK. It also will register 190☏ (90✬) from around 165✯ (74✬) all the way up to well over 200✯ (94✬). Mine doesn't even start to move until around 130☏ (54☌). If it's just reading low, then no error will be logged.Īnother factor is our funky coolant gauge. If the ECM side is wonky, the dropping out will trigger a "implausible signal" or "open or short to ground" type error as shown in VCDS. Then, on next glance, it will be back up again. When the CTS fails, like I said before, it will usually drop out or appear to quit working. If Torque is reporting low as well, it could just be outside temps or your thermostat is going bye-bye. Sounds like you have some decisions to make. Sometimes the sensor parts just fail after 1 year, others 10. If it xx00 or xx01 where xx is the week of the year or julian Day ofthe year, might give an indication if its original (99 or 00), or been replaced once or twice in its life. Check the Date code stampe on the Hex flange or plastic of the Sensor when you remeove it. Who knows if the ECT was replaced ever before. According to Fuelly you only have a few fillups using fuelly, this means the vehicle is not 1st owner, and you are now getting all of the fun of VW ownership. ![]() Since it probably is the Black plastic (original Version), the New ECT sensor has been up graded (Green Plastic Body) in the '00, It could be BOTH went out. It just will assume a certain temperature, if the FUel Sensor, Radiator Sensor, say something different than the ECT Sensor (Dual Sensor, one output for dash, other output for ECU). OP was regarding throwing a CEL, the ECU won't know that it is being lied to by the sensor. Once you replace the T-Stat, then you know you will have proper cooling / heating flow through the system.ĭepending on the Mileage, welcome to the world of VW. It typically is more advantagous for the shop to sell you a new T-Stat, than worry about a partial. add Shop time at $80 per hour, (around hear anyway), Toronto is Higher, Dealership is 100-120), Probably 7 units of labour time to re-re. So now the $30 part plus the $20 in coolant you are looking at $50 bucks in parts. Click to expand.You forget that you are going to loose 1/2 gallon of coolant, and at $40 bucks at the stealership, thats another $20 just for the coolant. ![]()
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